Wednesday, November 14, 2012
THE ALTERNATIVE SURF CULTURE
Last november 3rd, I woke up early, prepare all the gear and went for an early morning surf session at Parking Lot surf spot in the Puertorrican surf town of Rincon. Beautiful morning, blue skies, scant wind and clean glassy chest high to shoulder high waves observed on arrival. The swell was from the northeast and Antonio's showed the best waves with lined righthanders. Only two surfers in the lineup. Antonio's was the best answer.
I choose my 6'2" round tail quad fish (Greg Jaudon/MHL design), fresh sex wax, some sun block, intentionaly for my bald scalp and headed for a God blessing surf session. I started paddling and noted two figures, one of those was a native local suf legend, named Josue.
I met Josue years ago on Parking Lot's area in which he always was observing daily surf conditions and loved to pick up coconuts. That day we were taking about the day wave conditions when he kindly and spontaneusly gave some coconuts as a gift, showing his brotherhood spirit and his vast humility toward others. He was distinguish from others showing his pintoresque yellow,red and green surfboard.
Getting back to that morning session, waves were clean and nice. After a few waves I noticed that a few people was on the sandy shore sorrounding a recumbent body. At the same time I took a wave and while in near shore one of the locals call me and informed that Josue drawned. I went to the crude site and Josue was lying in the sand without life. As a physician, anoxic signs consisted of more than 10 minutes. Josue presented a detrimental heart condition which required a permanent pacemaker. The probabily of a ischemic heart event as the initial cause of death cannot be descarted. This was one of the sadest moments, but at the same time I thought that Josue maybe decided to be at his spot and enjoy his passion even with a known delicate heart condition.
We have to honor and respect this Rincon surf legend who passed to a new life doing was he loved in the place that he loved.
Josue died as a king doing the sport of kings, rest in peace.